Peru

1 Weekend, 2 Very Different Food Experiences

by Sarah Novak on May 5, 2013

Photo Courtesty of www.thelatinkitchen.com

We had two great food-based experiences this weekend and they couldn’t have been more polar opposites.  The first was on our Friday night date.  We visited a new restaurant in town called Amaz (located next to the Hilton Miraflores).  This restaurant is the 2nd in a series from Pedro Miguel Schiaffino, who is known for sourcing his ingredients directly from the Amazon.  No seriously, how cool is that?  Someone went foraging in the Jungle for my meal!

Photo Courtesy of www.nytimes.com

Schiaffino is developing a name for himself because of his unique commitment to Amazonian-based ingredients and cooking techniques.  His other restaurant, Malabar, which we also plan to try, focuses on Amazonian-based dishes too – but with a more upscale feel.

Nick and I didn’t go too crazy with our choices, but we definitely got a flavor of the jungle.  Nick chose shrimp and scallops marinated with vegetables and cooked in a bamboo leaf (pictured below).  I had an Amazonian river fish with wild mushrooms and cashews.  For dessert we got a lava cake and mousse made with Amazonian Cacao.  Not a bad dish in the bunch.  I think this place is going to move up the ranks quite quickly in the next year or so.  Keep it on your radar Limeño friends.

Photo Courtesty of www.historiasdesobremesa.wordpress.com

Our second outing took place on Saturday to a country place called La Granja Azul (the blue farm).  It was reported to be kid-friendly, so we ventured there in the afternoon with Nia.  The ride was about 1 hour from Miraflores, in a part of Lima called Ate.

Photo Courtesy of: www.lagranjaazul.com

La Granja Azul occupies a large parcel of land, some of which is devoted to the restaurant and the remainder that is occupied by rides, playgrounds and go-kart tracks.  Each adult is required to purchase a $25 all-you-can-eat meal of salad, anticuchos (cow heart on a stick), rotisserie chicken, french fries, rolls and a beverage.  This restaurant is famous for it’s fire-roasted rotisserie chicken and hand-cut fries and I gotta say, they were pretty damn good.  Did I mention that the chicken just keeps a comin’?

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Nia was into the chicken, but she really dug the rides and playgrounds.  We did the classic merry-go-round (which she got bored of) and then tried her first pony ride (which she insisted upon quitting after 30 seconds).  Oh well, so much for that.  At least we got a picture before she bailed!

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I liked the concept of this place, but I’ve heard that there are similar ones in Cieneguilla that offer more for the money.  I thought $25 was a bit steep for the food, considering how far out we were and the fact that they made you pay for all the rides.  I think we’ll try some other ones and perhaps see if we can put together a group of families to all go together in the future.

*Top 4 images from (in order): www.thelatinkitchen.com, www.nytimes.com, www.historiasdesobremesa.wordpress.com and www.granja-azul.com.pe.

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Volunteering in Lima: My trip to CIMA

by Sarah Novak on April 30, 2013

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Last week I had the good fortune of visiting the non-profit CIMA with the Canadian International Society, an expat group here that has supported this organization since it’s inception 25 years ago.  CIMA provides assistance to 8-18 year old boys who live on the streets or find themselves in high-risk situations.  The boys choose to come to CIMA of their own free will and may leave at any time.

CIMA does its best to meet the boys’ needs for housing, food, education, affection and healthcare with the hope of  re-integrating them back into their homes and society at age 18.  The staff diligently models teamwork, discipline, commitment and respect and channels the boys’ energy into a multitude of activities including music, sports, farming, art, woodworking and much, much more.

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The picture at the top is the art studio, where the boys produce products that are sold to the public. This is one of many examples of how CIMA teaches them to contribute to their community, whether it be through producing the food they eat, preparing the meals or creating goods to sell.  Not only do these endeavors increase their confidence, but the boys also leave CIMA with a wide variety of skills to use for employment in their adult life.

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When our group arrived, we were greeted by the director Jean-Louis, a Canadian who founded this organization 25 years ago after seeing an abundance of homeless children hanging out near the Plaza de Armas in downtown Lima.  He began by acquainting us with the facilities and then we were treated to a musical performance by the boys.

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The entire group sang a song for us and then a smaller band performed.

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The band was something created by the music department, which is run by two Alums of CIMA.  I expected something akin to my 6th grade concert band, but what we got instead was a professional-quality performance.  This kid pictured above with the windpipe was absolutely PHENOMENAL.

CIMA Visit

Watch them rock it out in this amazing video!
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I was fortunate enough to get asked to dance by this cute little guy.  He was brave enough to ask, but lost his courage once he got to the dance floor.  This prompted one of the older boys to jump in and carry on with me.  Such a fun experience!  I can’t wait to return with Nick and Nia.

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I leave you with a picture of the guinea pig (or cuy) pens.  There were roughly 250 guinea pigs at the moment, all of which will be food for the boys in the coming weeks.  Just in case you were wondering, they will participate in killing, butchering and cooking the cuy.  I’m all about self-sufficiency and learning new skills, but I draw the line at killing my own food…

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Father/Daughter Shenanigans

by Sarah Novak on April 28, 2013

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We’ve been out enjoying the final days of summer while we’ve still got sun.  For those who don’t know, Lima loses it’s sunshine for roughly 7 months a year thanks to the Humboldt Current, a jet stream that pushes the clouds eastward.  Those clouds run smack into the Andes and just like that we’ve got perma-cloud-cover.  And one other bizarre thing – Lima is a desert, so it never actually rains hard enough here that you’d use an umbrella.  However, during the winter months we get this cold mist called garua nearly every day.  Granted, it doesn’t get below 50 degrees F, but you’d be surprised what constant rain and no sun can do to one’s mood.

So back to where I started – we’ve been sucking up all the sun we can because it’s going to disappear very, very soon.  Today we went out for a romp in the park – here’s a short video of Nick and Nia enjoying each other:


Nick’s other passion as of late has been rock climbing.  We have a climbing wall near our house and he tries to get there 2-3 times a week.

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It’s been great strength training for him, as well as a wonderful stress release after a long day of work.

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Nick has a dream that Nia will join him on the wall within 6 to 12 months.  Crazy perhaps, but I think it’d be a great way to help her channel her abundance of energy (and stop climbing all our furniture).  We are going to start bringing her to the climbing wall to play around so that within a couple months she’ll be comfortable trying to climb on her own.

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As you can tell by the picture, Nia took to it immediately and Daddy couldn’t have been happier!

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Introducing Tech Tuesday & the Garage Sale Update

by Sarah Novak on April 23, 2013

Hi readers – Miss me?  I know, I’ve been a horrible poster.  I just haven’t felt inspired to write lately.  I have a plan though!  I’ve come up with some themes that encourage me to write more and give me built-in ideas.  One that I’m introducing is called Tech Tuesday where I’ll showcase an app, product or website that can add value to your life.  I’m always coming across awesome stuff and I think this would be a great forum to share them.  Stay tuned for next Tuesday’s inaugural post!

In other news, we’re just about to the 1 year mark.  I FINALLY feel settled here, it took a good 9 months, which was a lot longer than I anticipated.  The language barrier added more distance and hesitation than I thought.  Both parenting a 1 year old and learning a foreign language have challenged my patience immensely this year.  I know I’ve had some major personal growth, but it’s hard to see when I’m still in the middle of it.  It just kind of feels like I haven’t done much this tour (at least in comparison to the Philippines, that is).  We’ve had less travel, had fewer unique experiences and I’m definitely still struggling to find friends (although it’s improving week by week).  Don’t misunderstand, I’m happy here, I’m just having a hard time articulating what my accomplishments on this tour are.

Perhaps most exciting though was that this past Saturday morning was the Embassy Garage Sale!!!  For those who don’t know, garage sales are one of my favorite things that exist in this world (alongside Caribou Mochas, Minnesota and St. Ben’s).  We participated in one last fall and raked in $500 with only 1 table of stuff.  

This one was just as nutty as the first time around with 10-15 people mobbing my table at the opening.  I started with close to 250 items and only 10 remained at the end.  The Peruvians are all about the US brands, especially in baby clothes (which I seem to have an excess of ).

God was it fun.  

I was in my element all morning.  Repeat customers came up from the last sale and told me how much they loved our stuff (and what great quality it was).  One woman was even wearing my old shirt – SO WEIRD TO SEE!  

Peruvians love to bargain (I mean, who doesn’t) but it makes it so much tougher to add things up, especially when they want you to count in Spanish.  To remedy this, I created a no discounts policy this time around and said that I’d be happy to offer a discount on the item in the last half hour of the sale *if it was still here*.  Needless to say, I sold lots and lots of merchandise at full (garage sale) price.  

And just in case you were wondering, we broke our record from the first one, making a whopping $550!  I’m pretty sure we’ve got at least one more in us before we go, so I’ll be sure and report back on the results…

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A Fountain Frenzy!

by Sarah Novak on March 30, 2013

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Today we took a family field trip into downtown Lima to see Parque de Las Reserva (or the “Fountain Park” as it’s called when you can’t remember the Spanish name).  We’ve been meaning to get here forever but something’s always gotten in the way.  Today, we finally made it and were rewarded with the most glorious day ever!

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First, a bit about the place.  The park is comprised of 13 unique fountains.  It’s open from 3-11 PM Wednesday through Sunday and only costs a little over a dollar to get in.  Some fountains are for viewing only and others are open for kids to play in.  After dark, all of the fountains light up and the largest has a fountain show with lights and music (similar to the Bellagio one in Las Vegas).

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We only stayed from 3-5 PM, so we’ll have to venture back at night some other time to see the light show.  Despite missing the big draw, we had an absolutely marvelous time.  Besides food, parks are the other thing the Peru does consistently well.  They’re always well-manicured, spacious, litter free escapes from the city.

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We have a small fountain by our house and each and every time we pass it Nia screams with delight.  We knew that 13 gigantic fountains would guarantee some pee-your-pants excitement from her (ha ha – baby joke!)

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The kiddo loved each and every one.  She was sooo eager to jump in them and finally got her wish at the end of our visit when we arrived at the kid’s fountain.  I’m sure you’ve all seen these before, the ones where the water changes heights and shoots out and surprises you.  That’s exactly what it was, but like quadruple the size of normal ones.

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I wanted to be brave enough to go in with Nia, but I chickened out and Nick had to take her in (I’m not too keen on water unless it’s 100 degrees) 

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Nick desperately wants us to blend in public, but unfortunately he ended up with two loud-mouthed, attention-loving blondes.  Blend is one thing we do not excel at.  He was mortified by all the attention, but we ate it up.  2 vs 1, girls win!

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Some days, parenting kicks my butt.  Other days it is effortless and magical, full of good memories & meaningful connections between the 3 of us.  Happily, today fell into the latter category.  I know “Fountain Day” will stay seared in my memory for a long time to come. . . I love my little family!

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The Best Things in Life are Worth the Wait

by Sarah Novak on March 24, 2013

We’ve had helper drama lately.  I haven’t written about it because I wasn’t sure how it was going to be resolved, but I’m ready to give you the full lowdown now.

In early February I fired Lupe, our helper of 9 months.  The tension had been building between us for a few months due to the disrespectful way she spoke to me (she loved telling me how to parent Nia and run my household).  It got old real fast and I knew she needed to go, but I also knew that she really loved Nia and had proved to be a hard worker (these situations are never black and white, are they?)

Lupe did a little bit of everything – cleaning, laundry, cooking and watching Nia.  Although monetarily more efficient, I didn’t feel like it ended up being the best situation for Nia’s care.  Therefore, I decided to take advantage of this change in regime to separate the duties more.  The new plan was for me to take back laundry and some cooking, hire a cleaning lady to come in and do a deep clean one time a week and then get a Nanny who’s sole job would be to care for Nia (with a few dishes & some light cooking during her naps).

The more I thought about it, the more I liked my plan.  The only problem… Nannies were much harder to come by than cleaning ladies.  Being the creative gal that I am though, I came up with a novel idea.  I printed a crap ton of fliers and went to the kiddie playground during peak hours to pass them out.  I targeted all the nannies, knowing that they must have other nanny friends that were looking for jobs.  My plan worked beautifully and I was inundated with calls & texts over the next 48 hours.

Interviews started the next day and I was so delighted with the first 3 candidates that I stopped interviewing.  It was a tough choice, but I went with my intuition and hired the one I thought was best.  She was overjoyed and by the end of her first day I was absolutely thrilled with my choice.  Then came day 2, the day in which she failed to show up!  I was flabbergasted.  Who does that?  She texted me that night saying she needed to quit.

I was bummed, but I knew I had a good back-up candidate.  She was still available, so I got her to come in a few days later for a week trial.  #2 was sweet as could be, but lacked the ability to set limits for Nia.  My intelligent little girl figured out how to manipulate her in no time and it was crystal clear to me that this was not going to work.  It was about that time that #1 called back begging to get the job back.  Since #2 didn’t work, I thought, why not?  I like to believe the best in people and thought that maybe she had just messed up.

I call her up to confirm a Monday start date; she is ecstatic.  Monday comes.  #1 fails to show.  AGAIN!

By this time I’m starting to feel quite down about my Nanny search.  Thankfully it was time to go to Mexico, so I tabled the whole damn project for a week and resolved to attack it when I got back.  When I returned, I found out that by some lucky turn of events, my favorite nanny was now available (I know many of them from the playground).  I was ECSTATIC.

Her name was Paola and I had spent many days watching her play with the previous child she watched.  What I liked most about her was her high energy, her ability to manage bad behavior and the fact that she always had the child out playing at the playground or at City Toys (our equivalent of Gymboree).  I couldn’t believe my good fortune!

Well, turns out good things do come to those who wait.  Paola started working for us this week and I’m not kidding, it feels like a match made in heaven.  Nia ADORES her and it already feels like she’s been part of our household for months.  I am amazed at how much this change has reduced my stress level.  What a blessing she is!

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Egg Huntin’ at the Ambassador’s Residence

by Sarah Novak on March 23, 2013

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As I’ve mentioned before, Embassy Lima does a great job of putting on festive holiday celebrations.  Holidays tend to bring up additional feelings of homesickness and events like this really do a lot to counter-act the pain of being so far from home on these special days.  This year’s event was extra special because it was held at the Ambassador’s Residence, which is somewhere I’ve never gotten to visit.  BONUS!

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Grandma Janet had supplied Nia with another FAB party dress and I’m pretty sure she knew she was hot stuff by the way she twirled and waved.  It was a hoot!

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When we arrived there were a variety of activities to choose from including face painting, arts and crafts, games and food.  What did Nia want to do?  Stand over by the giant speakers and shake her booty!  My gal LOVES to dance.  So dance we did (we were the only ones, by the way).  We created our own little party!

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Next up was the Easter Egg Hunt.  The kids were split into 3 age categories and each child was allowed to take home 13 candy-filled eggs.  It took Nia a bit to figure out the objective of the game, but once it clicked she was totally into it.  .

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Here she is, collecting her eggs.

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As you can tell from the photos, it was pretty chaotic (the type of environment Nia thrives in).  Her Daddy, not so much… I think he was pretty happy when Nia petered out after an hour of partying.  :)

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And what Easter Celebration would be complete without a visit from the Easter bunny?  I am pleased to report that Nia had much less of an aversion to the Easter Bunny than to Santa (although she still did not want to touch him).  I dare say we’re making progress!  For those who are interested, the full gallery of photos can be accessed by clicking on the collage below.

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Hello Machu Picchu, You Glorious Thing!

by Sarah Novak on January 23, 2013

Just got back from a 4 day trip with Rachel to the Sacred Valley of Peru, home of the infamous Machu Picchu.  Can I just start by saying that it’s a b*tch to get there! Yup, we’re talking plane, train, and bus to get to this jungle-top paradise.  The good news: IT’S SO WORTH IT!

I’m going to focus on the Machu Picchu component of our trip for this post, but we also explored several other places including Pisac, Ollantaytambo and Cusco over our 4 days.  Wanna see the full gallery?  GO HERE.

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To get to Machu Picchu, you need to get to Aguas Calientes, a city only accessible by train.  If you come directly from Cusco, it’s about 3.5 hours.  Some people do it in a day trip from Cusco.  We decided to spend the night and beat the crowds for the sunrise & a walk up Wayna Picchu (more on that later).

Problem 1: I failed to read the fine print on the train tickets that said we could only bring 11 pounds each of baggage on the train.  We had a good 35-40 pounds between the two of us – Ooops!  What is one to do??  I saved the day by pulling out my biggest smile and best Spanish to talk our way onto the train.  Won’t make that mistake again!  Pretty sure it could have easily turned into a not-so-good situation…

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We arrive in Aguas Calientes and are delighted by our accommodations at the Rupa Wasi Eco Lodge.  We each had our own little “Treehouse Room”.

Problem 2: The altitude kicked our butts.  We both were taking Diamox, but still felt totally and completely exhausted all day long.

We had the grand vision of waking up at 4 AM, eating breakfast at 4:45, boarding our 5:30 bus to Machu Picchu (MP), watching the sun rise and then hiking Wayna Picchu (the humplike mountain you see in back).

Problem 3: It is rainy season and luck was not on our side.  We woke up at 4 AM to pouring rain.  Despite my excitement to get to MP, there was no way I was going stand there waiting for a sunrise that wouldn’t happen and then fall to my death off a slippery mountain.

The Solution: Climb back into bed and take the 8:30 bus, at which point the skies magically cleared up and we had a nice sunny visit to beautiful MP.

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MP is set up so that you can’t see it from the entrance.  Therefore, all of a sudden you turn this corner and – BAM – there it is, taking your breath away in all it’s glory.  I mean, seriously, how often are you in a city that is ABOVE THE CLOUDS???  The hype is deserved, this place is a marvel!

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MP is divided into segments.  There’s an agricultural sector, housing, an industrial center and worship places.  What stuck with me most was how advanced their building and planning techniques were (which can be evidenced by the fact that only 30% of MP was restored).  This place was built to last!

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We had a 2 hour tour with a guide.  I appreciated getting all the insight that a local could offer.  The history of the place becomes so much richer with more context.

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Rachel and I aspired to climb to the top of that terrace to get the famous MP picture that everyone gets but altitude sickness got the better of us and we passed on it.  I still have 1, possibly 2 MP visits left, so I feel confident I’ll get up there at least once!

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Take note in the above picture at how precisely they were able to align the stones.

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The visit didn’t go as planned, but it was still spectacular.  I imagine that I’ll take something new away from this place each time I visit.  What a treat it was to share this experience with my dear friend.

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PS – That mountain in the upper right corner is the one I thought I was going to climb.  Not sure what I was thinking when I booked those tickets!

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Choco-Mania!

by Sarah Novak on January 22, 2013

January has been plum full of visitors! My sister Jenna was here from January 2nd to the 12th and then my dear college friend Rachel arrived on the 12th and stayed until the 21st. Talk about non-stop hostessing! Oh, and did I mention that my in-laws arrive in 4 days for a month-long stay??? I love having visitors but I’m not going to pretend that it isn’t exhausting, especially now that I have the baby to tend to also…

Jenna and Rachel had very different ways they wanted to spend their time.  Jenna was all about adventure experiences, tanning and Nia time.  Rachel, on the other hand, was all about the Lima food experiences.  We did our best to satisfy her wish. 

She tried her first Pisco Sour and Ceviche at Gaston Acurio’s La Mar Cevicheria, took a cooking class with Nick at SkyKitchen and cinsisted on the truffle-making class at the Choco Museum

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I was a huge fan of the Bean to Bar Class I had taken with Jenna the week before and couldn’t see what the Truffle-making Class had in store for us!  What was great about taking both classes was that they each covered different things.  In this class, we learned how to temper the chocolate (stabilize it) and make the ganache filling that goes inside a truffle. 

Tempering is a process of heating the chocolate to 43 degrees Celsius, cooling it to 28 degrees Celcius and then bringing the temp up one more time to 31.5 degrees Celcius (careful, if you go over 32 degrees Celsius you’ve overcooked it and have to start the tempering all over again – guess if we might have done that???)

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When cooling the chocolate down to 28 degrees Celsius, it’s best to do it by spreading it out on a marble slab, although you can also do it in the fridge if you’re lacking marble.

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The process involves repeatedly spreading the chocolate and then collecting it again, taking temperature readings throughout.

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Here I am using a fancy-pants thermometer to test our chocolate (we had to put it in the fridge because it wasn’t getting cool enough on the marble with the sun shining in).  A candy thermometer works just as well.

We had previously made our ganache to go in the center of the truffle. Ganache consists of 2/3 chocolate + 1/3 cream and whatever you want to flavor it with (in our case, crushed coffee). You heat the cream to boiling with the crushed coffee in it, then pour the cream/coffee mixture into the warmed chocolate, capturing the coffee bits in a strainer. Next step is to let it cool for 5 hours and then mold it into balls for the center.

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We had the good fortune of making both ball truffles and molded candies with ganache centers.  In the photo above we’re coating the mold with the chocolate so that it will form a hard shell around the ganache.  For the molds, you don’t let the ganache cool for 5 hours, you simply use it while it’s in a lukewarm, pliable state.  Once we had filled the chocolate-coated mold with our ganache center, we sealed it up by putting another chocolate layer on top.

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Once cool, we had to pop our molded candies out of their shells.

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We also convinced them to let us paint them using this wicked-cool silver and gold candy paint.  Check out those pyramids!  Pretty sure we were just supposed to dust the candy, but it looked so pretty caked on…

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The final step for the Truffle balls was to dip the hardened ganache centers into the warm chocolate and tap them off, creating a smooth chocolate coating.  We then were free to decorate them with a variety of toppings.

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Look at my beauties below.  The toppings I chose are, from left to right: Quinoa (a Peruvian grain), Sea Salt, M & M’s, Chili Powder, Coffee Bean, & Coconut!

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Not gonna lie, I am insanely in love with this place.  Where else can you do a 2 hour fun workshop and then get to take home 12 pieces of AMAZING hand-crafted chocolate!  I’m thinking about doing a Valentine’s Day class next.  Any takers?

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From Bean to Bar at the Lima Chocolate Museum

by Sarah Novak on January 13, 2013

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One of the activities Jenna was most excited to try during her stay in Lima was a Chocolate-making Workshop at the Choco Museum in Lima.  This was my first time going as well, so we made for quite an excited pair!

We opted to do the Bean to Bar Workshop, where you complete the steps that go into making a Chocolate Bar from raw cacao.  In case you were wondering why a chocolate museum in Peru, you should know that Peru is really beginning to make an international mark for it’s chocolate.  The fertile ground is great for growing a high-quality product and cacao production provides an alternative living for poor farmers previously growing coca (the plant used to make cocaine).  Fear not, I am taking full advantage of all the yummy Peruvian chocolate options available here! 

Now, on to the workshop!

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We started by picking a handful of raw cacao and heating it in a unique shaped pot that trapped the heat and helped it roast.  We stirred it continuously for 10 minutes until we heard the beans pop.

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After that we began the tedious process of winnowing (separating the bean from the shell).

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At that point we were finally ready to begin grinding the bean down into a course powder using a pestle and mortar.  That was serious work – there may have even been some sweat dotting our faces…

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Here’s a look at the contrast from initial bean to ground powder.  Isn’t that amazing?

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Next we made three cacao-based drinks.  We took the discarded shells from the beans and steeped it into a yummy tea.  Then we made two more hot drinks with the ground cacao.  One was an ancient Mayan drink made with water and the other was traditional Hot Chocolate.  Here I am frothing my hot chocolate the old-fashioned way!

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Since we had used up all our ground product, we were then provided with a bowl of melted chocolate that had been prepared and tempered (this would have taken to long to do during the workshop apparently).  We then selected our molds and went about the difficult task of selecting our mix-ins.

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We each made about 10-12 chocolates and were able to take them home an hour later after they set.  We had a blast and learned a lot too.  In fact, Jenna liked it so much that she convinced Nick to go back with her the next day and do a truffle-making class.  If you’re in Lima, I’d definitely recommend this as a fun activity for all ages. 

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